• INCI Name: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
• CAS Number: 194043-92-0
• Common Names: Shea Butter, Karite Butter, Shea Karite
• Origin: West Africa (Butyrospermum parkii tree nuts)
• Certification: Certified Organic
• Processing: Refined — neutral odour; full fatty acid profile and unsaponifiables preserved
• Appearance: White to pale ivory solid at room temperature
• Odour: Neutral — characteristic smoky/earthy raw shea aroma removed by refining
• Texture: Semi-soft solid at room temperature (softer than cocoa butter); melts readily on skin contact
• Melting Point: 32–45°C
• Comedogenic Rating: 0–2 (non-comedogenic to very low — suitable for most skin types including oily and acne-prone)
• SAP Value (NaOH / for cold process soap): 0.128
• SAP Value (KOH / for liquid soap): 0.180
• Iodine Value: 52–66
• Saponification Value: 175–195
• Unsaponifiable Content: 5–11% — exceptionally high vs other cosmetic butters
• Shelf Life: 18–24 months from manufacture when stored correctly
• Storage: Store in a sealed container in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat. In hot Australian conditions store below 30°C to prevent softening

FATTY ACID PROFILE

• Oleic Acid (C18:1 / Omega 9): 40–55% — primary skin conditioning and moisturising fatty acid
• Stearic Acid (C18:0): 35–45% — contributes bar hardness in soap and stability in formulations
• Linoleic Acid (C18:2 / Omega 6): 3–8% — supports skin barrier and anti-inflammatory activity
• Palmitic Acid (C16:0): 3–7%
• Arachidic Acid (C20:0): 1–3%
• Linolenic Acid (C18:3): <1%

The balanced oleic/stearic ratio — roughly equal parts of each — is what gives shea butter its unique combination of skin conditioning (from oleic) and formulation stability and bar hardness (from stearic). No other common cosmetic butter has this balance at scale, which is why shea is so uniquely versatile across rinse-off and leave-on applications.

UNSAPONIFIABLE FRACTION — WHY IT MATTERS

The unsaponifiable fraction of Shea Butter (5–11%) contains the bioactive compounds that differentiate it from other cosmetic butters:

• Triterpene alcohols (lupeol, butyrospermol, parkiol) — anti-inflammatory and wound healing activity; contribute to the documented soothing properties of shea on eczema, psoriasis, and irritated skin
• Tocopherols (Vitamin E) — antioxidant protection for both the skin and the butter itself; contribute to shelf stability
• Phytosterols (β-sitosterol, stigmasterol) — skin barrier restoration and anti-inflammatory activity
• Allantoin — promotes cell proliferation and healing; soothing on irritated or compromised skin
• Phenolic compounds — antioxidant activity

Note for soap makers: The unsaponifiable fraction does not react with sodium hydroxide during saponification — it passes through the cold process soap reaction unchanged and is deposited in the finished bar. This means the skin-beneficial compounds in shea butter survive cold process soap making and are present in the cured bar, which is why shea soap is genuinely different on skin from soap made with regular oils.

RECOMMENDED USAGE RATES

• Cold Process Soap: 5–20% of total oil weight
• Hot Process Soap: 5–20% of total oil weight — add at cool-down stage for maximum unsaponifiable preservation
• Melt & Pour Soap (as additive): 1–3% melted and stirred in before pouring
• Body Butters (whipped): 30–60% of total formulation — shea is often the primary base butter
• Lotion Bars and Body Bars: 20–50%
• Body Lotions and Creams: 2–15% melted into the oil phase
• Facial Moisturisers and Serums: 2–10% — low comedogenic rating makes it suitable for most facial formulations
• Lip Balms: 5–20%
• Hair Masks and Deep Conditioners: 5–15% melted into oil phase
• Baby Skincare (barrier creams, body butters): 10–30%
• Natural Deodorant formulations: 10–30% as a base butter
• Healing Balms and Salves: 10–40%
• Eye Creams: 2–5%
• Cuticle Balms: 10–30%
• Stretch Mark Creams: 10–30%

REFINED vs UNREFINED RAW SHEA BUTTER

Refined Shea Butter (this product):
The raw butter has been filtered and steam processed to remove the characteristic grey-beige colour, earthy/smoky/nutty aroma, and fine particulates. The fatty acid profile and unsaponifiable fraction are preserved. The result is a white, neutral-scented butter with complete formulation flexibility and improved aesthetics in finished products. Certified organic. This is the correct choice for the vast majority of soap making and cosmetic formulation applications where a neutral scent base is required.

Unrefined Raw Shea Butter:
Retains the natural grey-beige to yellow colour, earthy smoky aroma, and full unprocessed character. Some formulators prefer raw shea for maximum perceived naturalness in marketing, or specifically want the distinctive shea scent. Functionally equivalent to refined for most applications. Not currently stocked at Soapmaid — if you specifically need unrefined raw shea, please contact us.

For virtually all soap making, body butter, and skincare applications — refined is the correct and preferred choice.

• Exceptionally high unsaponifiable content (5–11%) containing triterpenes, phytosterols, tocopherols, and allantoin — biologically active compounds that survive both cold process saponification and cosmetic formulation
• Balanced oleic/stearic fatty acid profile delivers simultaneous skin conditioning (oleic) and formulation hardness and stability (stearic) — no other common cosmetic butter achieves this combination
• Comedogenic rating of 0–2 — one of the most skin-compatible cosmetic butters; suitable for oily, acne-prone, sensitive, and facial skin where cocoa butter (rating 4) is not appropriate
• Neutral scent in refined form — complete scent freedom for all formulation applications
• Anti-inflammatory unsaponifiable compounds documented to reduce redness, calm eczema and psoriasis flare-ups, and soothe irritated skin
• Skin barrier restoration — phytosterols and fatty acid profile support repair of compromised skin barrier function in dry, eczema-prone, and dehydrated skin
• Unsaponifiables survive cold process soap making — shea butter soap delivers genuine skin benefits beyond regular soap
• Certified organic — meets organic certification requirements for product labelling
• Versatile across all cosmetic formats — rinse-off soap, leave-on body butter, lip products, facial skincare, hair care, baby products
• Available in 1kg, 5kg, and 25kg — suitable from hobby makers to professional cosmetic manufacturers
• Long shelf life of 18–24 months when stored correctly

TYPICAL APPLICATIONS

• Cold process and hot process soap
• Melt & pour soap as a luxury additive
• Whipped body butters
• Lotion bars and body bars
• Body lotions and moisturisers
• Facial moisturisers and eye creams
• Lip balms and lip butters
• Baby skincare — body butters, barrier creams, nappy balms
• Natural deodorant sticks and creams
• Hair masks and deep conditioning treatments
• Healing balms and salves
• Stretch mark and scar treatment creams
• Cuticle balms and nail treatments
• Eczema and psoriasis soothing balms
• After-sun and sunburn soothing products
• Beard balms and men's grooming products

For external cosmetic use — suitable for all leave-on and rinse-off formulations

Food grade — safe for lip products and formulations with possible oral exposure

Generally well-tolerated by all skin types including sensitive, eczema-prone, and baby skin

Comedogenic rating of 0–2 — low risk of pore clogging; suitable for most facial formulations

Individuals with latex allergies should be aware that shea butter contains trace latex proteins — exercise caution and patch test before use in products for latex-sensitive individuals, though refined shea has significantly reduced allergenic protein content compared to raw

Perform a patch test before use in new formulations intended for very sensitive or allergy-prone skin

Avoid contact with eyes in melted form; if contact occurs rinse thoroughly with water

Store sealed away from heat and direct sunlight — melts above 32°C; softens in Australian summer heat; store in a cool location in hot climates

Keep out of reach of children

Do not repeatedly melt and resolidify — repeated thermal cycling can affect texture and increase oxidation risk

What is the SAP value of Shea Butter for cold process soap making?
The NaOH SAP value is 0.128 and the KOH SAP value is 0.180. Enter these values into your lye calculator when formulating cold process or liquid soap recipes. Most lye calculators including SoapCalc already have Shea Butter in their databases — confirm the SAP value matches your source before finalising your batch.

What percentage of Shea Butter should I use in cold process soap?
A recommended usage rate is 5–20% of total oil weight. At 5–10% shea contributes noticeable skin conditioning and a silky feel to the finished bar without significantly softening it. At 15–20% the bar becomes increasingly conditioning and gentle — ideal for sensitive skin soap — but may require longer cure time and harder oil balancing (more coconut oil or tallow) to achieve sufficient hardness. Shea at higher percentages in cold process can slow trace slightly. It pairs excellently with coconut oil for lather and hardness, castor oil for bubbles, and olive or avocado oil for additional conditioning.

Does the refining process remove the beneficial properties of Shea Butter?
No — refined shea butter retains the full fatty acid profile and the majority of the unsaponifiable fraction that gives shea its functional skin benefits. The refining process removes volatile aromatic compounds responsible for the scent, colour pigments, and particulates — it does not remove tocopherols, triterpenes, phytosterols, or allantoin to any significant degree. Refined shea butter performs identically to raw shea in cold process soap making and cosmetic formulations. The only difference is the absence of the characteristic raw shea aroma.

Why is Shea Butter better for facial formulations than Cocoa Butter?
Shea Butter has a comedogenic rating of 0–2, meaning it is very unlikely to clog pores, making it suitable for most facial skin types including oily and acne-prone. Cocoa Butter has a comedogenic rating of 4 — significantly higher risk of pore occlusion. For leave-on facial moisturisers, eye creams, and face oils, Shea Butter is the far safer and more widely appropriate choice. Cocoa Butter is better suited to body products, lip balms, and bar soap where it rinses off or isn't applied to the face.

Can I use Shea Butter in baby skincare?
Yes — Shea Butter is one of the most widely used ingredients in premium baby skincare formulations globally. It is gentle, non-comedogenic, and its anti-inflammatory unsaponifiable compounds make it suitable for the delicate skin of babies and young children. It is a popular base for nappy balms, baby body butters, and barrier creams. Always patch test before first use on a baby's skin.

Does Shea Butter work in whipped body butter formulations?
Yes — Shea Butter is the most popular primary base for whipped body butters in Australia. When whipped using a stand mixer or hand mixer at room temperature (not melted), it incorporates air and takes on a light, fluffy texture similar to whipped cream. At room temperature in Australian conditions, whipped shea butter can soften considerably — to stabilise the texture, blend with harder butters (coconut oil, mango butter, or small amounts of arrowroot powder) and consider refrigerated storage in warmer months.

What is the shelf life of Refined Organic Shea Butter and how should I store it?
Properly stored Refined Organic Shea Butter has a shelf life of 18–24 months from manufacture. Store in a sealed container in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight and heat. In hot Australian summers, particularly in Queensland, Northern Territory, and Western Australia, keep in a cool pantry or store with air conditioning to prevent softening and accelerated oxidation. Do not repeatedly melt and re-solidify as this accelerates rancidity. If the butter develops an off, rancid, or acrid smell it should be discarded.

Is the 25kg box suitable for small businesses?
Yes — the 25kg box is specifically designed for small to medium cosmetic businesses, professional soap makers, and body butter producers who use shea butter as a primary formulation ingredient at commercial volumes. At 25kg you receive a significant price per kilogram advantage over 1kg bags. Contact us to discuss pallet pricing for very high volume requirements.

YOU MAY ALSO NEED

• Cocoa Butter (Deodorised) Food Grade — classic pairing with shea butter in body butters, lotion bars, and conditioning soap recipes
• Organic Mango Butter — blend with shea for lighter body butters and facial formulations
• Castor Oil (Hexane Free) — boosts lather and bubbles in cold process soap recipes containing shea butter
• Caustic Soda (Sodium Hydroxide) — essential for cold process soap making
• Beeswax Pellets (Natural) — hardens whipped shea butter formulations and lip balms
• Candelilla Wax (Vegetable) — vegan wax to firm up shea-based lip balms and lotion bars
• Arrowroot Organic Powder — stabilises whipped body butters and reduces greasiness in leave-on formulations
• Fragrance Oils — scent your shea butter soap and body butter creations
• Essential Oils Collection — natural scenting for shea butter formulations
• A Guide to Soapmaking – Digital PDF — includes butter usage rates and cold process formulation guidance