BTMS-25 Australia | Behentrimonium Methosulfate Conditioning Emulsifier

• INCI Name: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol
• CAS Number: 81646-13-1 (Behentrimonium Methosulfate); 36653-82-4 (Cetyl Alcohol)
• Common Name: BTMS-25, Conditioning Emulsifier BTMS-25
• Active Concentration: 25% Behentrimonium Methosulfate / 75% Cetyl Alcohol
• Charge Type: Cationic (positively charged) — deposits conditioning film onto negatively charged hair
• Grade: Cosmetic Grade
• Appearance: White to off-white waxy flakes or pellets
• Odour: Faint characteristic waxy — essentially odourless in formulation
• Melting Point: 50–60°C
• pH (in formulation): Produces slightly acidic to neutral pH; typical finished conditioner pH 4.5–6.5
• HLB Value: Approximately 11 (oil-in-water emulsification)
• Solubility: Dispersible in warm water above melting point; soluble in oils at elevated temperature
• Phase: Oil phase / emulsifier phase — melt with oil-phase ingredients at 70–75°C
• Shelf Life: 2+ years when stored correctly
• Storage: Store sealed in a cool, dry place away from moisture and heat
• Note: BTMS-25 uses Cetyl Alcohol (C16) as the co-ingredient; BTMS-50 uses Cetearyl Alcohol (C16/C18 blend) — this contributes to slightly different texture profiles in finished formulations

YOU MAY ALSO NEED

• BTMS-50 — higher active concentration conditioning emulsifier; more efficient per gram; ideal for lightweight leave-ins and production efficiency
• Cetyl Alcohol (Vegetable) — additional co-emulsifier and thickener to increase viscosity in BTMS-25 conditioners
• Castor Oil (Hexane Free) — adds shine and conditioning to BTMS-25 hair conditioner formulations
• Sweet Almond Oil — lightweight conditioning oil for BTMS-25 body lotion and hair formulations
• Shea Butter (Refined & Organic) — enriches BTMS-25 body cream and intensive hair mask formulations
• Optiphen Plus Preservative — compatible preservative for BTMS-25 conditioner formulations at pH 6.0 or below
• Phenoxyethanol Preservative — broad pH range preservative compatible with BTMS-25 across all typical conditioner pH levels
• Liquid Germall Plus Preservative — low-rate preservative alternative for BTMS-25 conditioner formulations
• Hair Supplies Collection — shop all hair care ingredients for conditioners, treatments, and styling products
• Wax and Emulsifiers Collection — shop all conditioning emulsifiers and waxes

• Cationic conditioning chemistry — deposits positive conditioning film onto negatively charged hair with high substantivity; fundamental mechanism that non-ionic emulsifying waxes cannot replicate
• 25% active Behentrimonium Methosulfate — lower active concentration than BTMS-50 provides rich, creamy texture with less risk of over-conditioning or weighing down in thick formulations
• Higher cetyl alcohol content (75%) — contributes a richer, thicker, more opulent body and texture to finished conditioners and creams than BTMS-50; produces the classic thick, creamy salon conditioner consistency consumers expect
• Self-emulsifying at 6–15% — creates stable O/W emulsions without additional emulsifying wax
• Excellent detangling performance — significantly reduces wet and dry combing friction in all hair types
• Anti-static — neutralises the static charge that causes frizz and flyaways
• Shine enhancement — smoothed cuticle reflects light more evenly for visible shine
• Popular beginner-friendly conditioner base — the higher usage rate (8–15%) is more forgiving for first-time conditioner makers learning to formulate; easier to scale up and down
• Butylene glycol free formulation profile
• Vegan — derived from plant-based behenic acid (rapeseed)
• Suitable for all hair types — particularly beneficial for dry, damaged, bleached, colour-treated, and high-porosity hair

• Cosmetic grade — safe for hair and skin contact in formulations at recommended usage rates
• Cationic emulsifier — avoid direct high-concentration blending with anionic surfactants (SLS, SLES, SCS) in the same phase; can cause precipitation or destabilisation at high combined concentrations
• Avoid contact with eyes in undiluted melted form; if contact occurs rinse thoroughly with water
• Perform a patch test before use in new formulations intended for sensitive skin
• Melt carefully — working temperature of 70–75°C presents burn risk; use heatproof equipment and double boiler
• Keep out of reach of children
• Store sealed at room temperature below 30°C — softens in hot Australian conditions; keep in a cool location in summer
• Biodegradable — Behentrimonium Methosulfate is readily biodegradable

What is the INCI name for BTMS-25?

The correct INCI name is Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol. Both components must appear on your finished cosmetic product ingredient list. Note the difference from BTMS-50 — BTMS-50 uses Cetearyl Alcohol (a C16/C18 blend) while BTMS-25 uses Cetyl Alcohol (C16 only). This difference in the co-ingredient contributes to slightly different texture profiles in finished formulations.

Should I use BTMS-25 or BTMS-50?

The right choice depends on your formulation goals. Choose BTMS-25 when you want a rich, thick, creamy conditioner texture — the higher cetyl alcohol content produces a classic opaque, luxurious conditioner body. Choose BTMS-50 when conditioning efficiency and lower usage rates are priorities — BTMS-50 delivers more conditioning per gram and is better suited to lightweight leave-ins and efficient production formulas. Many experienced formulators keep both: BTMS-50 as the conditioning workhorse and BTMS-25 for formulations where thick, creamy texture is the marketing or consumer feel priority.

What percentage of BTMS-25 do I use in a conditioner?

A typical rinse-off conditioner uses 8–15% BTMS-25. At 8–10% the conditioner is lighter and suitable for fine or normal hair. At 12–15% the conditioner is richer and more suitable for dry, damaged, thick, or coarse hair. Compared to BTMS-50 (which is used at 3–8%), BTMS-25 requires roughly double the amount to achieve equivalent conditioning — reflecting its 25% active concentration vs 50% in BTMS-50.

Can I blend BTMS-25 and BTMS-50 in the same formulation?

Yes — blending is common and effective. A typical approach: use BTMS-50 at 4–6% as the primary conditioning active for efficiency, then add BTMS-25 at 3–5% for additional cetyl alcohol body and texture richness. This gives you the conditioning efficiency of BTMS-50 with the thick, creamy texture contribution of BTMS-25's higher cetyl alcohol content. Adjust ratios to match your desired conditioning intensity and product viscosity.

Does BTMS-25 work in leave-in conditioners?

Yes — at lower usage rates of 3–6%. At these rates it creates a light emulsion that coats hair with a conditioning film without leaving it feeling heavy or greasy. For very fine hair, stay at 3–4% and keep oil additions minimal. For thick or coarse hair, 5–6% with a small amount of lightweight oil (argan, camellia) works well. Ensure full melting before water phase addition for a smooth, lump-free result.

How do I melt BTMS-25 for formulation?

BTMS-25 melts at 50–60°C. Add to your oil phase in a double boiler or dedicated wax melter, heating to 70–75°C for full incorporation. Confirm all flakes are fully liquefied before adding the water phase — undissolved flakes create lumpy texture in the finished conditioner. Heat the water phase to the same temperature before combining to prevent thermal shock and ensure a smooth emulsion.

Why does BTMS-25 create a thicker conditioner than BTMS-50?

BTMS-25 is 75% Cetyl Alcohol versus 50% Cetearyl Alcohol in BTMS-50. Cetyl Alcohol (C16) has a slightly higher melting point and crystallises into a more structured wax matrix on cooling compared to the C16/C18 blend in BTMS-50. This more structured fatty alcohol matrix contributes a thicker, creamier, more opaque body to finished formulations — the classic look and feel of a premium thick conditioner. At equivalent total wax percentages, BTMS-25 formulations generally pour at a higher viscosity and set to a firmer consistency than BTMS-50 formulations.