Make Your Own
Natural Face Cream
Using Xanthan Gum as your natural thickener, you can create a professional-quality hydrating face cream at home — silky, stable, and completely customisable.
What is Xanthan Gum?
Xanthan Gum is a versatile, plant-based thickener and stabiliser that has become a staple in both natural skincare formulations and food production. It is produced through the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris — the same microorganism found naturally on brassica vegetables like cabbage.
In cosmetics, it works as a highly efficient rheology modifier — meaning it controls the viscosity and flow behaviour of your formulations. At just 0.1–0.5%, it transforms a watery liquid into a beautifully smooth gel or cream, all without synthetic thickeners, petrochemicals, or heavy waxes.
Soapmaid's Xanthan Gum Powder is food-grade, non-GMO, and certified vegan — fully compliant for Australian cosmetic formulations and suitable for both skincare and food applications.
5 Key Benefits of Xanthan Gum in Skincare
From beginner hobbyists to professional formulators, here's exactly why xanthan gum belongs in your ingredient toolkit.
| Benefit | How It Works | Best Used In |
|---|---|---|
| 🌊 Natural Thickener | Creates a luxurious gel-like texture in water-based formulations without synthetic thickeners. Gives creams, serums, and cleansers a smooth, professional finish with as little as 0.1% usage. | Face Cream Serum |
| 🔗 Stabilises Emulsions | Helps bind water and oil phases together, preventing separation over time. By increasing viscosity at rest, it keeps oil droplets suspended evenly throughout the water phase — crucial for creams and lotions where stability is everything. | Lotion Moisturiser |
| 🧈 Improves Application Feel | Adds a silky, smooth glide to skincare products, improving spreadability and the tactile experience on skin. Shear-thinning behaviour means it flows easily when applied but thickens again at rest — the hallmark of a premium-feeling product. | All Creams Primers |
| ⚗️ Highly Efficient Usage Rate | Typically used at just 0.1–0.5%, xanthan gum is incredibly effective at low concentrations. This means cost per batch stays very low, and you won't compromise your formula with unnecessary bulk. A little genuinely goes a very long way. | Any Formula Budget-Friendly |
| 🌸 Sensitive Skin Safe | Non-irritating, non-sensitising, and non-comedogenic at standard use rates. EWG safety rating of 1 — the lowest possible hazard classification. Widely accepted in clean beauty, organic, baby, and hypoallergenic formulations. | Sensitive Skin Baby Products |
| 🎨 Suspends Particles | Prevents solid particles — mica, glitter, exfoliants, clays — from settling to the bottom of liquid formulations. Essential for toners with botanical extracts, scrub gels, and colour cosmetics that need uniform appearance. | Toner/Serum Scrub Gel |
| 🌡️ Wide pH & Temp Stability | Remains fully effective across pH 3–10 and is heat-stable, meaning it can be added to either cold or hot process formulations. Compatible with most cosmetic ingredients except cationics (like some conditioners and quaternary ammonium compounds). | Hot Process Cold Process |
Natural Hydrating Face Cream
A beginner-friendly emulsified face cream with a luxurious, silky texture — using all-natural ingredients from Soapmaid.
Beginner Hydrating Face Cream
A smooth oil-in-water emulsion — moisturising, lightweight, and completely natural
Ingredients
| Ingredient | Amount | Function | Phase |
|---|---|---|---|
| Distilled Water | 75g | Primary hydration base | Phase A |
| Glycerine | 3g | Humectant — draws moisture to skin | Phase A |
| Xanthan Gum Powder | 0.3g | Thickener & emulsion stabiliser | Phase A |
| Sweet Almond Oil | 10g | Emollient — softens & conditions | Phase B |
| OliveM® 1000 Emulsifier | 6g | Natural emulsifier — binds oil & water | Phase B |
| Liquid Germall Plus (Preservative) | 0.5g | Broad-spectrum preservation | Cool Down |
| Essential Oil (optional) | 0.2g | Fragrance & skin benefit | Cool Down |
| Total | 95g | Fills approx. one 100ml jar | |
Equipment
Method
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1
Sanitise Everything
Wipe all equipment, bowls, the stick blender, and your jar thoroughly with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Allow to air dry. Because this formula contains water, sanitation is critical — any contamination can cause the cream to spoil even with a preservative in place.
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2
Phase A — Prepare the Water Phase
Weigh the distilled water and glycerine into your heat-proof bowl and stir to combine. To incorporate the xanthan gum, use the slurry method: mix the 0.3g of xanthan powder into a small amount of glycerine first (about 1g extra) to form a smooth paste, then whisk this paste into your water. This prevents clumping entirely. Allow the xanthan gum to fully hydrate for 5 minutes before proceeding.
Never sprinkle xanthan gum powder directly into water without pre-mixing in glycerine first — it clumps instantly and can't be broken down once formed. -
3
Phase B — Prepare the Oil Phase
In a separate heat-proof bowl, weigh the sweet almond oil and OliveM® 1000. Place over the double boiler and heat gently, stirring, until the OliveM 1000 has fully melted and the mixture is clear and uniform. Target temperature: 70–75°C.
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4
Heat Phase A to Match
Place your Phase A (water + glycerine + xanthan) over the second burner of the double boiler and gently heat to 70–75°C, matching the oil phase temperature. Both phases must be at the same temperature before combining — this is what ensures a smooth, stable emulsion rather than a greasy, broken cream.
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5
Combine Phases & Emulsify
Remove both phases from heat. Slowly pour the oil phase (Phase B) into the water phase (Phase A) in a thin, steady stream while blending continuously with your stick blender. Keep the blender submerged to prevent air bubbles. Blend for 2–3 minutes until fully emulsified and you can see the mixture turning creamy and white. The xanthan gum and OliveM 1000 work together here — the emulsifier binds the phases and the xanthan gum locks the droplets in place for long-term stability.
If the cream looks slightly translucent or grainy, keep blending — it will turn opaque and smooth as the emulsion forms properly. -
6
Cool Down — Add Preservative & Fragrance
Continue stirring (by hand or on low with the blender) while the cream cools. Once the temperature drops to below 40°C, add the Liquid Germall Plus and your chosen essential oil. Adding the preservative while still hot can deactivate it — always wait for the cream to cool first. Stir gently until fully incorporated.
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7
Jar, Label & Rest
Spoon the finished cream into your sterilised glass jar. Smooth the surface. Leave the lid off for 15 minutes to allow any steam to escape before sealing. Label with the date, ingredients list, and preservative information. Leave the cream to rest at room temperature for 24 hours — the xanthan gum will continue to build viscosity during this time, and the final texture will be noticeably thicker than when freshly blended.
Pro Tips for Success
The most common beginner mistakes — and exactly how to avoid every one of them.
Usage Rate Guide
Use 0.1–0.2% for a light gel serum, 0.2–0.4% for a medium-bodied lotion, and 0.4–0.8% for a thicker cream. Never exceed 1% in leave-on products — above this level the texture becomes stringy and tacky on skin. This recipe uses 0.3% — ideal for a smooth, elegant face cream.
Prevent Clumps — Always
The slurry method is non-negotiable. Pre-disperse xanthan gum in glycerine (1 part gum : 5 parts glycerine) before adding to water. Once a dry lump of xanthan gum hits water, it hydrates the outside instantly and traps a dry powder core — impossible to dissolve. The glycerine pre-mix prevents this entirely.
Preservative is Non-Negotiable
Any formulation containing water — including this cream — must be preserved. Water is the growth medium for bacteria, mould, and yeast. Liquid Germall Plus is effective at just 0.1–0.5%, heat-stable up to 50°C, and broad-spectrum. Without it, your cream will develop microbial contamination, typically within 2–4 weeks — sometimes sooner in Australian summer.
Texture Builds Over 24 Hours
Don't be alarmed if your cream seems thinner than expected right after making it. Xanthan gum continues to build viscosity as it fully hydrates and the emulsion stabilises. Rest for 24 hours at room temperature before assessing the final texture. If still too thin after 24 hours, your next batch can increase xanthan gum by 0.1g.
Match Phase Temperatures
Both Phase A and Phase B must be at the same temperature (ideally 70–75°C) when combined. If one phase is significantly cooler, the emulsifier will start to set before proper emulsification occurs, resulting in a lumpy or grainy cream. A thermometer is essential equipment for emulsion making — not optional.
Customise the Oil Phase
Sweet almond oil is a great starter, but the oil phase is fully interchangeable. Try jojoba oil for oily skin, rosehip oil for brightening and anti-ageing, Kakadu Plum Oil for an antioxidant boost, or MCT oil for ultra-lightweight absorption. Keep the total oil phase at 10–16% for a balanced, non-greasy cream texture.
More Ways to Use Xanthan Gum
Once you have a bag, you'll find xanthan gum becomes one of the most versatile ingredients in your collection.
Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Use at 0.1–0.2% to thicken a water-based serum containing hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, or vitamin C. Creates a silky, non-sticky gel with excellent skin feel.
0.1–0.2% in serumClay Face Mask
Prevents kaolin or bentonite clay from cracking or separating in water-based clay gels. A small amount creates a smooth, spreadable mask that washes off cleanly.
0.3–0.5% in maskShower Gel & Body Wash
Adds body and viscosity to liquid soap bases without the synthetic thickeners found in commercial products. Improves the foam's cling and overall wash-off feel.
0.2–0.4% in washShampoo & Conditioner
Improves foam stability and gives the product body without heaviness. Particularly useful in sulphate-free shampoos where lather and viscosity can be tricky to achieve.
0.1–0.3% in shampooToner & Essence
Adds a slight gel-like slip to liquid toners, improving absorption and the patting application technique. Helps suspend botanical extracts evenly throughout.
0.1% in tonerNatural Sunscreen
Helps suspend mineral UV filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) evenly throughout the water phase, preventing settling and improving the overall cosmetic elegance of the formula.
0.3–0.5% in SPFFrequently Asked Questions
Ready to Make Your First
Natural Face Cream?
Everything you need — xanthan gum, glycerine, OliveM 1000, and sweet almond oil — ships fast from Melbourne.