What is the difference between cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)?

CAPB is an amphoteric surfactant with a Zein mildness score below 100 — meaning it causes minimal skin barrier disruption. SLS is a primary anionic surfactant with a Zein score above 400, making it significantly more irritating, particularly to sensitive skin. CAPB produces a creamier, denser foam and is typically used at lower concentrations (2–10% active) as a co-surfactant to reduce irritation from primary surfactants like SLES.

What are the safety concerns with cocamidopropyl betaine?

CAPB itself is CIR-approved and considered safe. The rare contact dermatitis reactions historically attributed to CAPB have been traced to process impurities — specifically dimethylaminopropylamine (DMAPA, ideally below 10 ppm) and amidoamine (ideally below 0.5%). Always source cosmetic-grade CAPB with a Certificate of Analysis confirming impurity levels. Finished product HRIPT (human repeat insult patch test) studies show sensitisation rates below 1%.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine: A Versatile Ingredient in Cosmetics

Q: Is cocamidopropyl betaine natural?

CAPB is derived from coconut oil (lauric acid) but undergoes chemical synthesis — amidisation followed by betainisation — to achieve its final structure. It is considered 'coconut-derived' but is not a purely natural ingredient. It is not appropriate for certified organic formulations that prohibit synthetic processing routes. It is, however, biodegradable and significantly milder than fully synthetic alternatives like SLS.

Q: What is the correct usage rate for CAPB in shampoo?

In shampoo formulations, CAPB is typically used at 3–8% active (as supplied at 30% active, this is approximately 10–27% by weight of the supplied liquid). As a co-surfactant alongside SLES, use CAPB at 20–30% of the total surfactant blend. For a sulphate-free shampoo where CAPB is the primary surfactant, use 8–15% active alongside decyl glucoside or sodium cocoyl isethionate.

September 30, 2025

Cocamidopropyl Betaine: A Versatile Ingredient in Cosmetics

The move away from sulphate surfactants has reshaped the entire personal care industry over the past decade. Australian consumers increasingly read ingredient labels, look for sulphate-free claims, and seek formulations that clean effectively without stripping or irritating their skin and scalp. Cocamidopropyl Betaine — CAPB — is at the centre of this shift. It is the mild, foaming, conditioning co-surfactant that makes sulphate-free formulas perform. This guide covers everything a cosmetic formulator needs to know about it.

What Is Cocamidopropyl Betaine?

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) is an amphoteric surfactant derived from coconut oil. It is one of the most widely used mild surfactants in modern personal care formulation — found in sulphate-free shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, baby care products, micellar waters, and intimate hygiene formulations worldwide.

The name tells you its origin: coco (coconut), amidopropyl (the amide and propyl chain linker from the synthesis), betaine (the zwitterionic head group). It is manufactured by reacting coconut fatty acids with dimethylaminopropylamine (DMAPA), then betainising the resulting amide with chloroacetic acid.

INCI name: Cocamidopropyl Betaine
CAS number: 61789-40-0
Charge type: Amphoteric (zwitterionic — carries both positive and negative charge)
Appearance: Clear to pale yellow viscous liquid
Active content (as supplied): 30–35% active in water
pH (as supplied): 4.5–6.0
Effective pH range in formulations: 4.5–7.5
HLB value: Approximately 14–16 — highly water-soluble
Zein mildness score: Below 100 (vs. SLS above 400)
CIR safety assessment: Safe as used up to 30% in rinse-off products
Biodegradability: Readily biodegradable (OECD 301B)

"CAPB's amphoteric nature means it can act as either a cationic or anionic surfactant depending on pH — making it unusually compatible with almost every other surfactant class and a formulator's most versatile co-surfactant."

The Chemistry: Why Amphoteric Means Gentle

To understand why CAPB is so mild, you need to understand what "amphoteric" means at a molecular level — and how it differs from the anionic surfactants (like SLS and SLES) that most people are trying to move away from.

Anionic vs Amphoteric Surfactants

Anionic surfactants like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) carry a permanent negative charge. This charge is highly effective at lifting oil and dirt but also strongly interacts with the skin's protein structures, denaturing them partially and disrupting the tight-junction proteins that form the skin barrier. The result is the stinging, tightness, and irritation that sulphate-sensitive consumers experience.

Amphoteric surfactants like CAPB carry both a positive and a negative charge within the same molecule — a zwitterion. At low pH (acidic conditions, like the skin's natural pH of 4.5–5.5), the positive charge dominates, making CAPB mildly cationic. At higher pH, the negative charge becomes more prominent. In the slightly acidic pH range of well-formulated cleansers (pH 5.0–6.0), CAPB is near charge-neutral — it interacts minimally with skin proteins and lipids, cleaning without disrupting the barrier.

The Zein test is an industry-standard measure of surfactant mildness — it measures how much of a standardised corn protein (zein) is dissolved by a surfactant, expressed in mg of nitrogen per gram of surfactant. The lower the score, the milder the surfactant. Results to know:

CAPB: Below 100 mg/g — very mild, minimal protein disruption
SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate): Approximately 150–200 mg/g — moderate
SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate): Above 400 mg/g — highly irritating
SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate): Below 50 mg/g — the mildest common primary surfactant
Water: 0 — the baseline

When CAPB is used as a co-surfactant alongside SLES, it physically inserts into the micellar structure of the anionic surfactant, diluting its charge density and reducing the overall Zein score of the blend to below 200 — a significant mildness improvement with no reduction in cleaning effectiveness.

5 Key Benefits in Cosmetic Formulations

Ultra-Mild Cleansing

Zein Score <100 · Skin Barrier Preserving

CAPB removes dirt, sebum, and product buildup without the protein denaturation that causes irritation from harsher surfactants. HRIPT (human repeat insult patch test) studies consistently show sensitisation rates below 1% for CAPB at formulated concentrations — making it appropriate for sensitive skin, reactive skin, and post-procedure skincare formulations.

Rich, Creamy, Stable Lather

Foam Booster · Foam Stabiliser · Hard Water Tolerant

CAPB substantially boosts foam volume and improves foam stability — particularly in hard water where anionic surfactants alone produce poor, short-lived lather. The foam produced is denser and creamier than the large, airy bubbles from SLS, which many consumers associate with a more luxurious, conditioning cleanse. It also stabilises existing foam against collapse from oils and conditioning agents in the formula.

Hair Conditioning & Static Reduction

Anti-Static · Combability · Light Film Former

The positive charge that CAPB carries in acidic conditions (the pH of most shampoo formulations) causes it to adsorb slightly onto the negatively charged surface of hair fibre during rinsing. This leaves a very thin, temporary cationic film that neutralises static charge — reducing flyaway and improving wet combability significantly. It is one of the reasons CAPB-containing shampoos feel noticeably more conditioning than SLS-only formulations on the hair.

Viscosity Building with Anionic Surfactants

Thickening Synergy · Pearlisation Enhancer

When combined with anionic surfactants (SLES, SLS, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate), CAPB forms mixed micelle structures that are larger and more closely packed than either surfactant alone. This increases the viscosity of the formulation without requiring additional thickeners like salt or carbomers — a significant formulation efficiency benefit. It also enhances the pearling effect from glycol distearate, producing the characteristic pearlescent finish of commercial shampoos.

Broad Compatibility & pH Flexibility

Compatible with Anionic, Cationic & Nonionic · pH 4.5–7.5

Because of its amphoteric nature, CAPB is compatible with essentially every other surfactant class — anionic (SLES, SLS, SCI), cationic (conditioning agents, preservatives), and nonionic (polysorbates, cocamide DEA). This makes it uniquely versatile for complex formulations like conditioning shampoos or leave-on rinses where cationic polymers are present alongside anionic surfactants. It also maintains good performance across the pH 4.5–7.5 range used in personal care formulations.

CAPB vs Common Surfactants

Mildness (Zein Score — Lower = Milder)

CAPBBelow 100 — very mild

SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate)150–200 — moderate

SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate)Above 400 — harsh

SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)Below 50 — gentlest

Decyl GlucosideBelow 100 — very mild

Foam Quality

CAPBCreamy, dense, stable — luxurious feel

SLS / SLESLarge, airy, fast-breaking — high volume

SCISoft, conditioning — low volume alone

Decyl GlucosideModerate, slightly rough texture

Typical Use Level (Active %)

CAPB as co-surfactant2–8% active

CAPB as primary surfactant (sulphate-free)8–15% active

SLES (primary)5–15% active

SCI (primary, solid)10–50% by weight

Surfactant Class & Charge

CAPBAmphoteric — both charges, pH dependent

SLS / SLESAnionic — permanent negative charge

SCI / Sodium Lauroyl SarcosinateAnionic — mild anionics

Decyl Glucoside / APGsNonionic — no charge

Applications & Usage Rates

Shampoo — All Hair Types

2–8% active · Co-surfactant or Primary

CAPB is the most important co-surfactant in shampoo formulation — it boosts SLES lather, reduces irritation, improves combability, and adds a conditioning afterfeel that consumers notice immediately. In sulphate-free formulas, it can serve as the primary or co-primary surfactant.

With SLES as primary: CAPB at 3–8% active. Use at 20–30% of the total surfactant blend for maximum mildness benefit.
Sulphate-free primary: CAPB 8–12% active + decyl glucoside 5–8% active. Add cationic polymer (e.g. guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) at 0.1–0.3% for conditioning.
2-in-1 conditioning shampoo: CAPB 5–8% + SLES 8–10% + dimethicone emulsion 1–3% + cationic conditioning agent.
Daily use / sensitive scalp: CAPB 6–10% active as primary surfactant — pH adjusted to 5.0–5.5 for scalp compatibility.

Body Wash & Shower Gel

5–10% active · Foam Booster

In body washes, CAPB primarily functions as a foam booster and mildness enhancer. The higher concentration of primary surfactant in body wash (typically SLES or ALS at 8–15%) means CAPB's charge-dilution effect is particularly significant for reducing skin dryness after showering.

Standard body wash: SLES 10–15% + CAPB 5–8% active + cocamide DEA 1–2% + salt thickener.
Sensitive skin body wash: CAPB 8–10% active + decyl glucoside 5–7% + no fragrance or only skin-safe essential oils.
Exfoliating body wash: CAPB 5–8% active + SLES 8–10% + physical exfoliant (fine sugar, pumice) at 5–15%.

Baby & Children's Products

4–10% active · Approved for Tear-Free

CAPB is approved and widely used in baby products due to its proven low sensitisation rate and tear-free compatible pH range. It is one of the few surfactants with sufficient evidence to be used confidently in products designed for daily use on infant skin.

Baby shampoo / tear-free: CAPB 4–7% active + decyl glucoside 3–5%. No fragrance or only certified-safe fragrance at maximum 0.01%. pH 5.5–6.0.
Baby body wash: CAPB 5–8% active + sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 3–5%. Formula should be unfragranced or use only dermatologically tested, IFRA-compliant fragrance.
Key rule for baby products: total active surfactant concentration should be kept low (under 15% active) — it is the total surfactant load, not just CAPB, that determines mildness.

Facial Cleansers

2–5% active · pH 4.5–6.0

Facial skin has tighter tolerances than body skin — and the trend toward skin-barrier-supportive cleansing has made CAPB a primary surfactant in many premium facial cleansers. Its ability to cleanse effectively at low concentrations and pH 5.0–5.5 makes it ideal for maintaining skin microbiome balance.

Gel cleanser: CAPB 3–5% active + sodium lauroyl glutamate 2–3% + humectants (glycerin 3–5%, sodium PCA 1%).
Foam cleanser: CAPB 4–6% active + potassium cocoate 2–3% + aloe vera gel 5%. Apply via pump foamer.
Oil-control cleanser: CAPB 3–5% + zinc PCA 0.5% + niacinamide 2% + tea tree EO 0.5%.
Always formulate facial cleansers to pH 4.5–5.5 to support the acid mantle and minimise transepidermal water loss post-cleanse.

Micellar Water & Makeup Removers

0.5–2% active · Low-Suds, Leave-On Compatible

At very low concentrations (below the critical micelle concentration in the finished formula), CAPB behaves more like a mild emulsifier than a cleanser — perfect for micellar water formulations designed to remove makeup without rinsing.

Classic micellar water: CAPB 0.5–1.5% active + poloxamer 184 or polysorbate 20 at 0.5% + glycerin 5% + panthenol 0.5% + pH adjusted to 5.5–6.5.
The CAPB contributes micelle formation without generating significant foam — essential for a leave-on wipe-off application.
For eye makeup removal, ensure total fragrance is kept below 0.01% and avoid essential oils — the periocular skin is significantly more sensitive than facial skin.

Starter Recipe: Sulphate-Free Shampoo

CAPB coconut derived surfactant for sulphate-free shampoo formulation

Sulphate-Free Daily Shampoo

Rinse-Off · Makes 200g · All Hair Types

Phase A — Water Phase

Distilled waterMake up to 100%
Glycerin3.0%
Panthenol (vitamin B5)0.5%

Phase B — Surfactant Blend (add to Phase A)

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) 30% active25.0% — giving ~7.5% active
Decyl Glucoside 50% active14.0% — giving ~7.0% active

Phase C — Thickener & Conditioning

Sodium chloride (salt — thickener)1.0–2.0% — adjust to viscosity
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride0.2%

Phase D — Fragrance & Preservative (add at cool-down)

Fragrance or essential oil blend0.5–1.0%
Preservative (e.g. Euxyl K 702)Per supplier recommendation

pH Adjustment

Citric acid solution (10%) — to adjust pHTo reach pH 5.0–5.5

Method

1 Prepare Phase A: Weigh distilled water into a clean, sanitised mixing vessel. This is a cold-process formula — no heat is needed. Add glycerin and panthenol directly to the room-temperature water. Stir gently with a spatula or low-speed mixer until fully combined. The water should be clear.
2 Add Phase B (surfactants): Pour CAPB and decyl glucoside directly into Phase A with gentle stirring. Both are liquid surfactants and dissolve easily at room temperature — no heating required. Stir slowly to avoid creating excessive foam. If foam does form, allow to settle before continuing. The mixture will appear slightly hazy at this stage — this is normal.
3 Add Phase C (thickener and conditioning): Sprinkle guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride into the batch slowly while stirring to prevent clumping — if added too fast it can form lumps that are difficult to dissolve. Stir for 2–3 minutes until fully dispersed. Then add sodium chloride in small increments (0.5% at a time), stirring and checking viscosity between each addition. Stop adding salt when your target consistency is reached — adding too much can thin the formula again.
4 Adjust pH: Check the pH of your batch using a calibrated pH meter or narrow-range pH strips. The target is 5.0–5.5. The batch will likely read pH 5.5–6.5 at this stage. Add your 10% citric acid solution drop by drop while stirring, checking pH between additions. Small amounts go a long way — add slowly to avoid overshooting. A pH of 5.0–5.5 is important for scalp health and maximises CAPB's mildness performance.
5 Add Phase D (fragrance and preservative): Because this is a cold-process formula, you can add fragrance and preservative straight away — there is no need to wait for the batch to cool. Add fragrance or essential oil blend and stir gently. Then add your preservative at the manufacturer's recommended rate and stir thoroughly for 1–2 minutes to ensure even distribution throughout the batch.
6 Final pH check and packaging: Recheck the pH after adding fragrance and preservative — both can shift the pH slightly. Adjust again with citric acid if needed. Allow any foam to fully settle (typically 15–30 minutes at rest) before filling bottles. Transfer to a clean, sanitised pump or squeeze bottle. Label with ingredients (INCI names in descending order of concentration), batch date, and best before date (typically 12 months from manufacture for a properly preserved formula).

This is a cold-process formula — no heat required. All surfactants and actives dissolve at room temperature, making it one of the most energy-efficient shampoo manufacturing processes. The finished shampoo should be clear to very slightly hazy. Cloudiness from residual air bubbles will clear on standing for 24 hours. Adjust final pH with citric acid to 5.0–5.5 — this is critical for both hair health and CAPB mildness performance. Salt thickening works between approximately 0.5–3%; add in small increments and measure viscosity after each addition as the response curve is non-linear. Always challenge-test your preservative system (PCPC method) before commercial release.

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The 20–30% rule: When using CAPB as a co-surfactant with SLES, the maximum mildness benefit is achieved at a CAPB:SLES ratio of approximately 1:3 to 1:4 (CAPB making up 20–30% of the total surfactant active content). Below 15% CAPB in the blend, the mildness benefit drops sharply. Above 35%, there is diminishing return and increasing cost. This ratio is the most consistently validated finding in surfactant blend mildness research.

Safety, Purity & What to Check When Buying

CAPB itself is extremely well-tolerated. The rare contact dermatitis reactions historically associated with CAPB have been traced specifically to two synthesis impurities — not to CAPB itself. When you source correctly, these risks are negligible.

Dimethylaminopropylamine (DMAPA): A synthesis precursor that can cause contact sensitisation at elevated levels. The industry standard maximum is 10 ppm (0.001%) in finished CAPB. Request a Certificate of Analysis (CoA) from your supplier confirming DMAPA below 10 ppm. This is the single most important purity specification to check.
Amidoamine: A related intermediate that can also cause sensitisation. Should be below 0.5% in cosmetic-grade CAPB. This is typically controlled by the same production quality controls that limit DMAPA — if your supplier has a CoA confirming DMAPA levels, amidoamine is generally also controlled.

High-quality cosmetic-grade CAPB from reputable suppliers will have DMAPA well below 10 ppm and amidoamine below 0.5%. Always request and keep the current CoA for every batch you purchase.

CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review — USA): Safe as used up to 30% in rinse-off products and up to 10% in leave-on products.
EU Cosmetics Regulation: Permitted without restriction as a cosmetic ingredient at appropriate use levels.
AICIS (Australia): Listed industrial chemical. Cosmetic-grade CAPB is commercially available and compliant for use in Australian cosmetic formulations.
Baby products: Approved and widely used at up to 10% active in products designed for infants. HRIPT testing shows sensitisation rate below 1% in formulated products.
Leave-on products: Use with caution at higher concentrations — though CIR approves up to 10%, most leave-on applications use 0.5–3% active. Below CMC, CAPB behaves more as an emulsifier than surfactant and leave-on safety is well-established.

⚠️

Is CAPB "natural"? CAPB is derived from coconut oil (lauric acid) but undergoes two chemical synthesis steps — amidisation and betainisation. It is accurately described as "coconut-derived" but is not appropriate for certified organic formulations that prohibit synthetic processing routes (COSMOS, ACO). For fully natural formulations, consider sodium cocoyl glutamate or decyl glucoside as alternatives, noting they have different foam and sensory profiles.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is cocamidopropyl betaine natural?

CAPB is derived from coconut oil but undergoes chemical synthesis to achieve its final structure. It is accurately described as "coconut-derived" but not as "natural" by most certification standards. It is not appropriate for COSMOS or ACO certified organic formulations. It is, however, biodegradable and significantly milder than fully synthetic alternatives like SLS.

What is the difference between CAPB and SLS?

CAPB is an amphoteric (dual-charge) surfactant with a Zein mildness score below 100. SLS is an anionic surfactant with a Zein score above 400 — more than four times more irritating. CAPB produces creamier, more stable foam and has genuine conditioning properties. SLS produces more foam volume but strips the skin barrier significantly more aggressively. Most modern shampoos that claim "sulphate-free" replace SLES/SLS with CAPB as a primary or co-primary surfactant.

What are the safety concerns with CAPB?

CAPB itself is CIR-approved and extremely well-tolerated. The rare contact dermatitis historically attributed to CAPB has been traced to two process impurities: DMAPA (target below 10 ppm) and amidoamine (target below 0.5%). Source cosmetic-grade CAPB with a current Certificate of Analysis confirming these levels. Sensitisation rates in finished, properly formulated products are below 1%.

What is the correct usage rate for CAPB in shampoo?

As a co-surfactant with SLES, use CAPB at 3–8% active (20–30% of total surfactant blend). As a primary surfactant in a sulphate-free shampoo, use 8–15% active alongside a co-surfactant like decyl glucoside. CAPB is supplied at approximately 30–35% active — divide the active percentage target by 0.30–0.35 to calculate the formulation percentage by weight.

Can I use CAPB in leave-on products?

Yes — CIR approves CAPB up to 10% in leave-on products. In practice, most leave-on applications (micellar water, toner, light conditioner) use 0.5–3% active. At concentrations below the critical micelle concentration (CMC) in the finished formula, CAPB functions as a mild emulsifier rather than a detergent, making it suitable for leave-on rinse-free cleansing formats.

Why is my CAPB-based shampoo not thickening with salt?

Salt (sodium chloride) thickens SLES-based systems by altering micelle structure. In a fully sulphate-free formula where CAPB is the primary surfactant, salt thickening is less effective because the mixed-charge micelles of CAPB don't respond the same way to ionic concentration changes. For CAPB-primary systems, use a polymer thickener instead — Carbopol (neutralised with triethanolamine), hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), or xanthan gum — at 0.2–0.8% for effective viscosity control.

Shop Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB)

Cosmetic-grade CAPB — low impurity, CoA provided, Australian stock. Available in small and bulk quantities for home formulators and professional manufacturers.

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Formulations & Usage Rates: All formulations, usage rates, phase compositions, and pH targets published on this blog are provided as a general guide only. Cosmetic formulation involves complex interactions between ingredients that vary by supplier, batch, water quality, and processing conditions. Always conduct small-scale trials, stability testing, and challenge testing before manufacturing at scale. Soapmaid Australia accepts no responsibility for any outcomes resulting from the use of formulations published on this site.

Cosmetic Compliance (Australia): Cosmetic products sold commercially in Australia must comply with the Industrial Chemicals Act 2019, the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020, and all relevant ACCC and TGA requirements. It is the responsibility of the manufacturer to ensure all ingredients are listed on the Australian Inventory of Industrial Chemicals (AIIC) or are notified to AICIS. Information on this blog does not constitute legal or regulatory advice. Always verify compliance requirements directly with AICIS and the ACCC.

Safety Testing: All cosmetic products sold commercially should undergo appropriate safety assessment, stability testing, preservative efficacy (challenge) testing, and dermatological testing before release. This is a legal requirement under Australian Consumer Law for products making cosmetic claims. Soapmaid Australia strongly recommends engaging a qualified cosmetic chemist or safety assessor before releasing any new cosmetic formulation to market.

Skin & Allergy Sensitivity: While CAPB is considered a mild surfactant, individual skin sensitivities vary. Always perform a patch test before using any new formulation on sensitive skin. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and seek medical advice. Source cosmetic-grade CAPB with a current Certificate of Analysis confirming DMAPA below 10 ppm and amidoamine below 0.5% — these impurities, not CAPB itself, are the source of rare sensitisation reactions.

Product Liability: Soapmaid Australia supplies raw cosmetic ingredients only. The formulation, manufacturing, safety testing, labelling, and sale of finished cosmetic products is the sole responsibility of the maker. We strongly recommend appropriate product liability insurance before selling finished products commercially.

General: Information on this blog is provided in good faith and is accurate to the best of our knowledge at the time of publication. Soapmaid Australia makes no warranties regarding the completeness or accuracy of any content. We reserve the right to update or correct content at any time without notice. Use of this information is entirely at your own risk.

September 30, 2025

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Your Trusted Source for Premium Cosmetic & Soap Making Ingredients

Cocamidopropyl Betaine: A Versatile Ingredient in Cosmetics

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB): The Mild Surfactant for Gentle Cleansing

What Is Cocamidopropyl Betaine?

The Chemistry: Why Amphoteric Means Gentle

Anionic vs Amphoteric Surfactants

5 Key Benefits in Cosmetic Formulations

CAPB vs Common Surfactants

Applications & Usage Rates

Shampoo — All Hair Types

Body Wash & Shower Gel

Baby & Children's Products

Facial Cleansers

Micellar Water & Makeup Removers

Starter Recipe: Sulphate-Free Shampoo

Sulphate-Free Daily Shampoo

Safety, Purity & What to Check When Buying

Frequently Asked Questions

Shop Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB)

Complete Your Surfactant Toolkit